by Bushpig Guest Contributor, Scott Banman
Simplify and modernize. Take a look at your rear brake light switch. See this old-school mechanical switch?
The issue: Over time, it is prone to failure, and it has to be readjusted every time you are adjusting your pedal height.
Below is a fairly simple way to replace it with a modern and simple pressure switch. Follow through the different steps to remove the stock switch and install the new one.
Put the bike on a center stand/lift/box. Remove seat and rear wheel.
Prep all tools needed. This minimizes the time to swap out the switch’s banjo bolt, resulting in less brake fluid loss and air entry into the line.
Remove reservoir bracket and re-use bolt to hold reservoir from tipping/spilling.
Keep cap screwed on, so the rubber diaphragm is airtight, creating a capillary effect that prevents draining the brake fluid from the reservoir while the line is disconnected.
The stock brake switch can be unbolted now or later.
I chose to put the bolt back on to protect the threads and confuse me later about what that bolt is for.
5. When threading the hydraulic switch on, the pigtail will want to twist and flail around.
Having a second person hold it vertical or using a 36” piece of clean pipe attached to the bike will keep the pigtail straight while the switch is rotated/tightened.
6. Quickly remove stock banjo bolt (12mm wrench) and washers and replace with hydraulic switch (14mm wrench) and supplied washers.
7. An appropriately sized screwdriver is handy to separate the brake pads.
This allows you to push the brake fluid backward to remove air once the delete switch has been swapped in.
Apply pressure to separate the pads while loosening the switch when the air is purged at the switch, re-tighten.
8. Bleed any remaining air out of the line via the rear bleed nipple on the brake caliper. This is a great time to refresh the brake fluid with new completely.
9. Rinse off any brake fluid spills asap with water to prevent it from removing paint.
10. Re-route the new pigtail back to the harness.
On the DR650, you’ll want to pay particular attention to keeping it away from the exhaust pipe, and it will require a tight bend of the pigtail at the switch.
This bracket is a pain in the oink to access but is the perfect spot to zap-strap the pigtail onto to keep it off the pipe.
Another zap here keeps it tidy.
From there, follow and replace the stock wiring to the bike harness.
(grey connector above the rectifier)
11. Re-install the rear wheel. Pump the rear brake lever to snug up the pads to the rotor, top up the rear brake fluid reservoir, and check for proper brake light function.
12. Remove the old switch and give it to someone you don’t like.
Nah, just kidding ;)
Simple enough, right?
Pick up a Rear Brake Light Switch Delete Kit for your bike.